Nicky Holford and her dog Elf head for Babbacombe in Devon for walkies with waves.
Read the full Article on the Telegraph HERE
Dolphin sightings at The Cary Arms are frequent enough for there to be a large bell at the best viewing point, near the Captain’s table. But when the sonorous bell rings out this time, it is for a new visitor.
- Read Nicky Holford’s expert guide to Devon on the Telegraph’s Website
A seal has taken to popping up at high tide in the hope of getting a mackerel or two from the fishermen on the pier. He is in luck and comes to the steps of the pier, flippers and mottled belly in full view, and gobbles the proffered shimmering mackerel. Hearing the bell, we rush down from our high viewpoint, through a small private gate. Attention to detail, with numerous little quirky touches is what gives The Cary Arms its character.
I am here with my husband Ian and Elf, our Norfolk terrier, who takes up residence in one of the two dog-friendly rooms. On check-in and throughout our stay, Elf is treated as a Very Important Dog. He has a king-size bed (just like us) and large water and feed bowls, the last being filled with dog treats that I have to ferret away before he snuffles them up in one go.
It’s a beautiful day and the plan is to explore the dramatic south Devon coastal paths and, if we feel brave or hot enough, to dip in the sea. We are hoping Elf, who so far has shown little enthusiasm for water, will join the labradors galloping into the sea after sticks. But the casual atmosphere, and enticing terraces, almost hidden among the lush and colourful baskets of flowers, delay our departure as we decide to try the local crab and toast our luck. Elf greets fellow canines lying in the shade, their tails wagging furiously under the tables.
There are a million things to do but this turns out to be a place where you just want to stay put. There are all sorts of nooks and crannies that you wouldn’t necessarily notice at first. A secret padlocked gate where a tiny path disappears between the cliffs and out of sight. Follow it and you will find a set of steps in the rocks that leads to a small cove and perfect swimming spot. Just beyond our balcony, the flower beds of persimmon, lavender and huge pink hydrangeas lead to another little passage where wild grasses partially disguise a pod. The pod looks a little like a circular cable car but is a secluded and weather-protected romantic hideaway ideal for cocktails or dinner overlooking the sea.
When we eventually tear ourselves away from the hotel, we blast through Torquay and head beyond Paignton to the secluded National Trust countryside around Coleton Fishacre. We follow part of the 630-mile coastal path along the cliffs, watching boats and kayaks skim through the water. Above, seagulls squawk and we survey the cliff crevices for gannets and guillemots.
At Scabbacombe Sands we scramble down a narrow path and find a secluded spot. The tide is going out but Elf is not sure about the waves and back-pedals each time they break. He spots a border collie in a life jacket on a rubber dinghy and watches as it jumps over the side and swims to shore.
The next day we have breakfast at the Captain’s table. The fishermen are on the pier, the beach café opens its shutters, and the automatic sprinklers water the hanging baskets. As we check out, Bob Beamon, the former long jump world record-holder and Olympic and US champion, checks in. But not before his wife, westie in tow, takes a photo of Elf.
WHAT TO AVOID
Drivers should note there are often traffic bottlenecks in Newton Abbot, Torquay and Paignton. To avoid them, seek out back routes and check the BBC’s local traffic website (bbc.co.uk/travelnews).
Hot dogs – most service stations have picnic areas where you can give your dog a breather en route. If you have to leave your dog in the car for any length of time, avoid parking in the full sun, leave the windows slightly open and fill a bowl with water.
Don’t let your dog off its lead when crossing farmland.
Read Nicky Holford’s Devon Restaurant Recommendations on the Telegraph Website